I always thought taro root was something used in steamed or fried dishes at dim sum parlors. That is, until my colleague Kevin Pang, from the Chicago Tribune, took me to Joy Yee’s in Chinatown and showed me how good taro can be in a frozen smoothie. I don’t want to spoil the surprise, but … Continued
Chicago is as much a lox town as New York City is a sturgeon one, and while I’ve lamented the lack of bagel shops here offering smoked sturgeon, finding gravlax (aka “lox” which is essentially cured salmon) is still pretty easy. Yet few people realize that you don’t need to own a giant smoker or … Continued
You could call Matt Lee a coffee geek, and he would be just fine with that. The owner of Manic Coffee in Toronto was seriously tired of seeing the Tim Horton’s chain – along with a lot of other so-called “coffee shops” open up and serve sub-standard beans that had been roasted who-knows-when. So Lee … Continued
With all of the food and wine heavies in town this weekend for Chicago Gourmet, reservations will be about as easy to get as they are during the National Restaurant Show. I’m sure every seat at Next is taken, as their remarkable Thai menu draws to a close at the end of the month. In … Continued
Martial Noguier never quite settled into his previous assignments. At one sixtyblue, his cooking would veer into French territory, but the fact diners were there for Michael Jordan’s connection as much as anything, probably limited his creativity. At Café des Architectes, inside the Hotel Sofitel, he explored his roots a bit more, but still, he was a … Continued
As the summer draws to a close, I’m left with thoughts of sweet corn, tomatoes and soft serve. I’ve been spending lazy days on, in and around Lake Geneva, the summer respite for so many Chicagoans. With an abundance of farm stands in the area, the thought of cooking dinner every night is simply exhilarating. … Continued
The dudes over at Sultan’s Market may have the bus stop bench advertising market cornered, and as much as they boast about their falafel, it is quite good. But regulars at Albany Park’s Semiramis also know that their favorite Lebanese haunt also churns out some of the best in the city. I particularly love their … Continued
Just about every Italian restaurant on Taylor Street, in Little Italy, serves the same lineup: penne with vodka sauce, eggplant parm and veal milanese. But Davanti Enoteca has been a standout since it opened a few months ago, mainly due to its excellent lineup of cured meats and cheeses, as well as some boldly-flavored antipasti … Continued
I didn’t grow up in the deep South, and I never had a mama who whipped up biscuits and cornbread just for the hell of it. That doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate a superb fried chicken.‚ There are few contrasts as tasty as a crisp, fatty shield of chicken skin, yielding to an impossibly … Continued
Readers of this blog will know that I show little mercy for Italian restaurants claiming on one hand to be “authentic,” while serving dried pasta from a box. Thankfully, there are more than a handful of local chefs now rolling and cutting their own pasta, many times the result of their own taste memories … Continued
Several years ago while on a trip to San Francisco, I managed to devour a luscious bread pudding from the legendary Tartine Bakery on a Sunday morning. Then about two years ago, I felt as if I had experienced it all over again, except this time it was in Andersonville, at M. Henry during … Continued