It’s not like I’m choosing sides in a NYC bagel war, or somehow claiming to know which joint in L.A.’s Thai Town makes the best khao soi, but when you start ranking fried chicken, I know the haters are waiting in the wings, so to speak, ready to pounce. Although I’m not sure I’m going … Continued
From the Boka Restaurant Group (Boka, Girl & the Goat, GT Fish, etc.) the company’s first Japanese concept is a stunner. Up until I went, there were only a handful of sushi restaurants in Chicago I would even recommend (Katsu, Mirai, Juno), but add Momotaro to this list. Not only is the fish sliced expertly, … Continued
Sometimes, curiosity gets the best of me. It’s one of the hazards of my job, driving around the city, rubber-necked, looking at interesting awnings and neon signs that beckon from beyond the sidewalk. What is it that makes someone pull over, pay the meter and walk into an unfamiliar space? Unless you’re going based on … Continued
I rarely bother writing about opening days of restaurants, since whatever a publicist promises, in terms of actual dates, usually gets pushed back due to forces beyond their control. So take this with a few bags of Maldon. But the reason I’m letting you know about White Oak Tavern & Inn is not because of … Continued
There are less than 10 great Korean barbecues in Chicago, and while a lot of people rave about San Soo Gab San, I’ve always felt they could care less about the customer. Gogi sets a new standard: high-quality ingredients, everything made in-house (that means at least 12 banchan, or veggie side dishes) plus friendly, helpful … Continued
There are only a handful of places I like for dim sum in Chicago’s Chinatown. Phoenix is the stalwart – and much-needed renovation in 2014 really brought them into the modern era. Cai, on the 2nd floor of the Chinatown Square Mall, is more elegant, but still, bustling on a weekend (which means plenty of … Continued
Is there a better fried chicken in Chicago? Probably not. Although there are certainly different styles (I love the Carolina-style at Roost, as well as the vaguely Asian-flecked version at Smalls). But Crisp has always been my go-to. It’s twice-fried, then tossed with a choice of either a gojujang-laced barbecue sauce or a sesame-soy-garlic Korean … Continued
Say what you will about Montreal smoked meat, but Schwartz’s – that legendary icon – is nothing more than a tourist trap. On my most recent visit, a few years ago, I got a tour of the kitchen and noticed they don’t smoke the cured briskets anymore; haven’t since the 60s. What they serve at … Continued
An upscale take on the American diner with great cocktails, matzo ball soup and yes, those cheeseburgers. During brunch (and after midnight) check out the chilaquiles, but be sure your friends are joining you, because the mound is enough to feed six. It seems like Brendan Sodikoff and the Hogsalt team thought of everything here … Continued
What’s not to like about biscuits, jams, pie and candied bacon? These are no ordinary biscuits of course, and the fact that goose lard is used in the pie crust makes those extra special too. I say get a little candied bacon, or maybe opt for one of the breakfast sandwiches now available. Grab a … Continued
Jimmy Bannos, Jr. has restaurants in his blood. His father launched Heaven on Seven, where the young Bannos grew up, then he trained in New York with Mario Batali’s team for a series of stages. But it’s his father’s Greek heritage and his mother’s Italian heritage the really creeps into dishes like the grilled chicken … Continued