Momotaro

From the Boka Restaurant Group (Boka, Girl & the Goat, GT Fish, etc.) the company’s first Japanese concept is a stunner. Up until I went, there were only a handful of sushi restaurants in Chicago I would even recommend (Katsu, Mirai, Juno), but add Momotaro to this list. Not only is the fish sliced expertly, sourced responsibly and offered somewhat seasonally, the rice in the nigiri is perfectly seasoned, allowing  you to taste each grain – a rarity in our roll-obsessed culture. The menu is a tad ambitious – there’s yakitori grilled over binchotan, noodles, larger entrees – but it all works. The namesake is based on a highly-seasonal Japanese tomato that they dehydrate then turn into an umami-rich, beef-free tartare that will make your head spin. There’s also a downstairs bar with a completely different snack menu, perfect with a glass of junmai ginjo or beer.

Momotaro

820 W. Lake St., Chicago, IL 60607; (312) 733-4818