Much of the food media’s gaze tends to focus on what’s new or hot. But I wanted to show some appreciation for the classics. So all month long, I’m going to be visiting some local legends, who’ve been quietly keeping the city’s culinary flame alive; in some cases, paving the way for other entrepreneurs.
As immigrants from India and Pakistan arrived in Chicago in the 1960s and 1970s, they typically made their way to West Rogers Park, along Devon Avenue. But over the years, more and more South Asians have re-settled in Schaumburg and Naperville, and that means great restaurants have followed.
There are quite a few new restaurants opening in the city as of late, but I’m particularly fond of a new one in West Town. It’s run by a couple of industry veterans who’ve created the kind of restaurant they’ve always wanted to visit themselves.
With Fat Tuesday and Ash Wednesday behind us, the season of Lent is underway. Catholics traditionally abstain from meat on Fridays until Easter, and that means more demand for seafood. I visited a seafood specialist in Portage Park this week, approaching 80 years in business.
The owners of Georgio’s Chicago Pizzeria & Pub in Crystal Lake and S. Barrington say they owe their success to Alice Mae Redmond. Redmond, who worked at Uno’s, Due’s and Gino’s East, helped Brian Coli’s father create Old World Pizza in Elmwood Park in 1990. She shared her expertise and her recipe with the Coli … Continued
Black History Month begins today, and I wanted to dig into a restaurant with Deep Southern roots, located in a South Side neighborhood with its own storied past. The menu traces its recipes to both Mississippi and Louisiana… partly a result of the Great Migration, and a granddaughter’s commitment to carrying on her family’s traditions. … Continued
The last two years have seen a bumper crop of new pizzerias in Chicago with styles ranging from deep-dish and tavern style to Detroit and Sicilian. At a new spot on the Northwest Side, the staff started off with one style, then added a second after popular demand. The Chef behind Giant – one of … Continued
Sanguich de Miami is a one-of-a-kind sandwich shop on Calle Ocho in Miami. They roast their pork, brine and cure their ham and make the pickles. They even brush the Cuban bread with lard instead of butter, when griddling them. It’s a must if you’re in Miami and are craving a decent Cuban sandwich. Sanguich … Continued
La Celia opened shortly before the pandemic, and it’s located on an uncharacteristically quiet stretch of Milwaukee Avenue on Chicago’s NW Side. But go for brunch! La Celia Latin Kitchen 2890 N. Milwaukee Ave. 773-360-7536
George Bumbaris has spent a lifetime figuring out how to make a better deep-dish. Natural starter and longer fermentation are key, but so is his method of baking. George’s Deep Dish 6221 N. Clark St. Chicago, IL 773-801-1551
SLAB has been an excellent source of Texas-style barbecue since 2019. They’re planning on participating in this year’s Windy City Smokeout (July 8 – 11), so they gave us a little preview of what’s to come. SLAB 8136 W. 3rd St. Los Angeles, CA 310-855-7184