Fumare Meats

Say what you will about Montreal smoked meat, but Schwartz’s – that legendary icon – is nothing more than a tourist trap. On my most recent visit, a few years ago, I got a tour of the kitchen and noticed they don’t smoke the cured briskets anymore; haven’t since the 60s. What they serve at Schwartz’s is what we call corned beef. What they serve at Fumare, tucked away inside the Chicago French Market, is what we call pastrami: a generously-rubbed brisket with black pepper and coriander, cured then roasted then smoked to perfection, served on rye with yellow mustard. How good? I took Montreal native (and champion fresser) William Shatner there on his brief trip to town. “Best smoked meat I’ve ever had,” he said with a giant smile.

Fumare Meats

131 N. Clinton St. (in Chicago French Market), Chicago, IL 60661; (312) 930-4220