Top 5 Chicago BYOBs

Just the other day, I caught a glimpse of a new wine list in town, from a restaurant located on the Chicago River. They had a few sauvignon blancs from New Zealand, including one from Cloudy Bay (no vintage) that went for about $84, more than a 300% markup. I know that’s typical in the industry – afterall, getting a liquor license is expensive, and restaurants make the best margins on their liquor sales. But a markup that steep, on a bottle from a so-so producer, without even indicating which year it was from, seemed a little peculiar. Which is why I just love BYOBs, which allow you to bring your own bottle.

Most BYOBs don’t have a corkage charge – a fee you pay to help cover the cost of glassware, labor, breakage, etc. – but some do. In fact, even restaurants with liquor licenses can charge you a corkage if you bring your own bottle (decorum dictates you only bring a bottle if the restaurant doesn’t carry it, like that ’59 Chateau d’Yquem you’ve been hanging onto). Most ethnic joints allow BYOB, especially my beloved Sticky Rice and Aroy, but today’s Top 5 specifically looks at restaurants where the food is more ambitious, and the creature comforts somewhat more, how shall I say, refined.

1. Ruxbin 851 N. Ashland Ave., (312) 624-8509

Bon Appétit Magazine chose this Ukrainian Village charmer as one of its Best New Restaurants last year, and I can see why: not only does Chef Ed Kim create delicious, craveworthy dishes with an occasional Asian accent in a funky, sustainably-sourced dining room, the BYOB policy with just a $5 corkage per table is a sweet deal.

Bring: prosecco, furmint, baco noir

2. Goosefoot 2656 W. Lawrence Ave., (773) 942-7547

When former Les Nomades Chef Chris Nugent and his wife opened their restaurant on a semi-desolate stretch of West Lawrence Avenue, skeptics might have thought they were crazy. But the $90 prix fixe for 8 courses is sheer magic, commanding attention from the most serious of diners. Beautiful stemware, soft lighting, comfy seats…it all adds up to an elegant night out. Typically, a wine list at a restaurant of this caliber would run your bill well north of $400, but thanks to the no-corkage BYO policy, you’ll save a bundle.

Bring: Bordeaux, Champagne, mersault

3. Schwa, 1466 N. Ashland Ave., (773) 252-1466

You’ve gotta love Michael Carlson’s laissez faire approach to being a restaurateur. No reservationist, no servers, no customer service. As much as some people will bitch and moan (me included, especially when the music choices veer toward metal), he does things his way, which is usually pretty delicious. Serving avant garde food in a room a little bigger than my freshman dorm, the BYO policy is truly a gift from this dishevelled, offbeat and creative dude.

Bring: Super Tuscans, New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Burgundy

4. Bonsoiree, 2728 W. Armitage Ave., (773) 486-7511

Truth be told, I didn’t have the greatest experience when I ate here a few years ago, but I keep hearing good things about the food from reliable sources, whom I trust, so combined with the fact that they allow you to bring your own bottle, the $68 five-course is a pretty good deal. You have to sign up to be on their mailing list to get a reservation.

Bring: grüner veltliner and Oregon pinot noir

5. Chilam Balam, 3023 N. Broadway St., (773) 296-6901

Crazy-stupid Top Chef audition tape aside, Chuy Valencia still serves bold, vibrant regional Mexican food in a subterranean space in Lake View. Need a margarita or some sangria? Just bring the booze, and they’ll whip something up for you to go along with your ceviche, mole or tostados.

Bring: light-bodied reds, gewürtztraminer, tequila

Honorable Mention:
Tango Sur, 3763 N. Southport Ave., (773) 477-5466

Argentinian steaks, barely seasoned with coarse salt and served with buckets of chimichurri.

Bring: malbecs, California cabs and zins for the meat-centric menu