Al Toke Pez

If you want to know where the truly food-obsessed go for a great local eating experience, just ask a chef. I asked plenty on my visit, and they all agreed on one thing: Al Toke Pez. In the Surquillo District, the blink-and-you-miss-it storefront has just a handful of seats, all directed at chef/owner Tomas Matsufuji. “Toshi” works the kitchen, while his mom works the front counter. On my visit, we devoured a plate of thinly-sliced tiradito of cola negra (black bass, pictured above) with lemon; then came fresh water prawns fried whole with garlic. Tall glasses of chicha morada (sweetened purple corn) were refilled with abandon. It’s not leisurely and it’s not elegant, but man, this was some of the best food I’d eaten after being in town for four days.

Al Toke Pez

Avenida Angamos Este 886, Surquillo 15047, Lima